Still Waiting
One month on from our initial departure date and we are still waiting to find out if we can leave Morocco. Having managed to cling on to our position at the Welcome Dock for three weeks, several days ago we were asked politely but firmly to move back into Tanja Marina Bay proper. It felt like a backward step, but it is actually a safer position to be in. Welcome Docks are not designed for long-term mooring.
These past four weeks have tested our patience and emotional stamina. The situation in Tangier (and Morocco on the whole) flip-flops almost daily. Sweeping changes are brought in without warning. Just when you think you have things sorted out, or things are going in your favour, the situation changes overnight. Rules are being written on the fly - we’re in a pandemic after all - but the result is chaotic.
Two weeks ago the city of Tangier went back into full lockdown with no notice. Just a few hours later that decision was reversed. Two days ago travel between major cities was suspended with just four hour’s notice. This weekend is Eid al-Adha, the country’s biggest religious holiday, and many families have been left separated and stranded.
And yet, there is currently an “exceptional operation” in place, where selective borders have been opened for a short period of time. This partial border reopening permits foreigners to leave the country for certain destinations, and as a private vessel we are currently doing everything we can to be included in this operation. However, the approval process is a mystery and is taking more time than we would like.
We have been strung along for weeks, and every day we are told that tomorrow will bring good news. Information is clouded in confusion. Weather windows have come and gone. We have apparently been given verbal approval to depart, but without the paperwork it means nothing. However, we are not the only vessel trying to leave Morocco (or get back in for that matter). There are dozens trying to do the same.
The true hero in all of this has been, without a doubt, Ben. Trying to wade our way through the red tape has almost become a full-time job. His drive in trying to move the process forward has been relentless; we are not ones to sit back and wait for things to happen. Ben spends every day calling people for answers, collating documentation, visiting offices, translating information, holding meetings, scouring news sites, queuing in crowds, chasing down leads, and pressing for answers. Knowing what move to make next is a total guessing game. It is tiring and stressful work. If nothing else, the people in this city know who we are!
Apparently all non-resident foreigners will be permitted to exit without penalty until the end of Morocco’s state of emergency on 10 August (providing this is not extended again). Despite being told that our time is up (and begging to leave for weeks) we currently do not have permission to do so. We’re still dreaming of diving into those turquoise waters of the Mediterranean, but at this point we’d happily take a puddle!
