Ephesus
We recently visited the ancient ruins of Ephesus, and were blown away by the size and history of this once bustling city. The port of Ephesus was one of the most important cities in Greek antiquity. Sitting near the western shores of modern-day Turkiye, it commanded part of the trade route to Asia and became the Mediterranean’s main commercial centre during the Roman Empire. It was second only to Rome as a cosmopolitan centre of culture and commerce, and even supplied olive oil to Rome!
However, Ephesus actually has a history that stretches back some 2,500 years, to a time before the Classical Greece period. Legend says that Ephesus was founded by the Amazons, a tribe of legendary female warriors, and that the city was named after their queen, Ephesia. But the coastline is now located 10km away; the harbour that was the city’s trade link between East and West eventually silted-up, leading to the demise of Ephesus.
Today, Ephesus is considered to be one of the largest open-air archeological museums in the world. Excavations have been ongoing here for more than 100 years! It is the best-preserved classical city of the Eastern Mediterranean, so the UNESCO World Heritage Site is obviously a favourite tourist attraction. We were sure to be there when the gates opened in order to beat the crowds (and the heat!), and spent hours wandering the paved streets of these immortal relics.
These monumental ruins are a window to the past, and clues to the immense wealth of this ancient city. There are temples, amphitheatres, agorae, houses, fountains, bordellos, libraries, gymnasiums, public lavatories, shops, bath houses, mosaics and aqueducts. Each one hinting at the city's original splendour. Each one reflecting centuries of history. Each one a marvel.
Here are a few highlights from our tour of the archaeological site of Ephesus.
The Grand Theatre of Ephesus was once the largest open-air theatre in the ancient world. Built into the slope of a mountain, it could seat up to 25,000 people! This magnificent structure once had an elaborate 2-storey building that rose up behind the stage terrace, before it was destroyed in an earthquake. The theatre was of great social significance to the city, and was a place not only for artistic entertainment, but also council assemblies, lectures and public meetings. Even today it is famous for its acoustics, hosting the likes of Elton John and Pavarotti.
Wander south along the main street of Ephesus (Marble Street), to the heart of the city and you will find the Library of Celsus. Built during the golden days of the Roman Empire, this spectacular building was one of the biggest and richest libraries of ancient times, and once held over 12,000 papyrus scrolls. The building faces east, so that the reading rooms could make best use of the morning light. Its striking facade is an icon of Turkiye, and is full of ornamental marble, columns and fine detail. Clever architecture and perspective enhance the perceived size of the exaggerated entrance. Although the front of the library was completely destroyed by an earthquake in the Middle Ages, it was carefully rebuilt in partnership with the Austrian Archaeological Institute during the 1970s.
Around the corner and up the hill are the Terrace Houses. These luxury Roman villas are built on a slope opposite the Temple of Hadrian, and date back to the 1st Century BCE. Excavations have been ongoing here since the 1960s; reconstructions continue to this day and allow visitors to see the painstaking work of the archaeologists here. These houses have been covered by a large roof in order to protect the valuable interiors from the elements. Inside, rooms are still brightly decorated with ornamental mosaics and hand-painted frescos. Marble fountains, bathroom fittings, underfloor heating, running water, even a private basilica, show just how rich these residents were. Graffiti etched into the walls reveal clues about the people who lived here; the names of people, poems and declarations of love. Shopping lists noted the latest prices for vegetables and spices. And scratched markings where children have played games and kept score.
What a fascinating insight into the daily life of the Ephesians! All of which somehow makes the past so much more tangible.