Diocletian's Palace
When the Roman emperor Diocletian abdicated after 20 years on the throne, he was the first emperor to voluntarily do so. He had ruled for a relatively long period of time in the latter part of the Roman Empire, successfully stabilising the economy and military. Despite the Empire being on the brink of collapse in Diocletian’s youth, his reforms guaranteed its success for another 150 years.
He was keen to live out his last years in peace, and built himself a palace at his birthplace on the Dalmatian coast in 305 CE. Despite requests for Diocletian to return to power and resolve the conflicts that had arisen with his successors, he refused in order to tend to his vegetable garden by the seaside. Today the remains of his palace form the historic core of modern-day Split, Croatia’s second-largest city.
Wandering through the most complete remains of a Roman palace in existence, it’s clear to see why this well-preserved architectural landmark is such an important piece of world heritage. We spent a wonderful afternoon on a private walking tour, kindly organised by our boat buddy Laurie on m/v Gratitude. Our guide, Filip, was extremely enthusiastic and knowledgable; not just about his hometown, but about how the history of the world is woven into the very fibres of every stone we walked upon.
We heard how the basement substructures are remarkably well preserved thanks to the interlude of time they served as a rubbish tip. This helped archeologists map the palace by giving them the floorplan of the rooms above. (Nowadays you’re more likely to find the dragons of Daenerys Targaryen down here.)
Adjacent to the Temple of Jupiter, we walked one of the world’s narrowest streets; Let Me Pass (Pusti Me Proc). In centuries long gone ladies relished the opportunity to pass here with the hope of bumping into male suitors, or at least passing notes to them.
We entered the monumental courtyard, called the Peristyle, built with local white sandstone and marble imported from Italy and Egypt. Nowadays it is a place to stop and enjoy a drink, and listen to the buskers who take advantage of the unique acoustics in this extraordinary sea fortress.
We were regaled with the tale of how Diocletian took 12 stone sphinxes from Egypt and shipped them back to the palace, only for his enemies to smash the 3,500 year old sculptures after his death. Just two remain, incongruously sat on the street for all to climb on, still perched above their hieroglyphics.
From here we entered the Vestibule, a grand circular hall once used as a waiting room for ambassadors and select audiences before they entered the throne room of Diocletian. It has most recently been seen in the ambush and fight scenes of Meereen on Game of Thrones.
And we passed through the Golden Gate; one of four in the palace, and the main entrance into the complex. It is here that when invaders entered the palace they would be trapped between an inner and outer gate in a square enclosure, and shot like fish in a barrel.
After the death of Diocletian, following incursions and retaliations for his persecution of Christians, his palace was slowly engulfed by the changes of time. Gothic, Baroque, Byzantine and Renaissance buildings sprung up inside the palace walls, and it has been continuously occupied ever since. It has morphed into a city within a city, and is now a labyrinth of 220 homes, shops and restaurants that incorporate the old walls and columns into their structures. But what changed it, is also what saved it. This once exclusive complex has now inextricably become a part of the beating heart that drives this lively and modern city.
