Cagliari
We have eased into our winter routine and it has brought with it a sense of steady productivity. Eight weeks in and the streets of Cagliari are familiar to us; the city feels comfortable. There has been no big culture shock here, but just an easy sense of being (though not necessarily belonging). And although the country lives up to its reputation for unnecessary bureaucracy, fortunately we’re not here long enough to have to navigate and drown in a sea of red tape.
We spend our days tinkering and toiling, making the most of our stationary months. Every weekday we take the bus from the bustling harbour front through the tree lined avenues of well-to-do suburbs on the school run. The children impress us with numbers and colours spoken in Italian, and share playground songs and games, like Rock Paper Scissors, in their new language.
It doesn’t snow here, but the mornings are fresh. We climb through the hilly historic streets and wander in the shadows of ancient ramparts. Like Lisbon, Rome and Istanbul, the city is built upon seven hills. We constantly marvel at the diverse architecture; some grand, some crumbling. The flag of the Four Moors liberally adorns every government building, shopfront, and face mask alike. We search out the many city gardens. We partake in waterfront passeggiate on the weekends. We regularly stuff our faces with pizza and fresh pasta and Sardinian almond biscuits.
We’re at ease with the city shutting down every afternoon for siesta; the summer in Spain has prepared us well. Nonnas stop us in the street to coo over the children. Most of the Italians we meet here are Sardinian born and bred, and yet the city has quite the cosmopolitan vibe. We have gotten to know our favourite haunts; not all of them Italian. The overpriced bakery that makes perfect French croissants. The Bangladeshi barbershop hidden in one of the winding alleyways. And the Danish barista who appears to make the only Long Black coffee in Italy.
Yet, there is still much to discover (and thankfully still time to do so!).
