Izmir

Izmir, on Turkiye’s Aegean coast, is one of the oldest cities in the Mediterranean. Set around a huge bay surrounded by mountains, its broad boulevards and glass-fronted buildings are peppered with traditional red-tiled roofs, mosques and historic landmarks.

Like most coastal ports in this part of the world, it has a long and winding history, coloured most recently by Greek occupation after the First World War. But the city was reclaimed by none other than Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, one of the most important political leaders of the 20th century. Atatürk went on to become the first president of the Republic of Turkiye and "Father of the Turks". This year actually marks 100 years since the city’s occupation ended, an event that sparked the Turkish War of Independence and set the groundwork for establishing modern-day Turkiye. 

Four days after the Greek occupation of the city ended all those years ago, a huge fire destroyed three quarters of Izmir in the city’s worst disaster. But today, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Izmir is Turkiye’s 3rd largest city with over 4M people. Its contemporary buildings and relaxed vibe make for a modern and compelling city. We immediately felt welcomed in this seaside metropolis.

We spent a day touring the main highlights of Izmir with our hosts, the Catalkaya family. The symbol of the city is a local meeting place; an Ottoman marble Clock Tower in Konak Square. The children enjoyed feeding and chasing flocks of pigeons around the square before washing their hands in the four fountains at the base of the tower.

Wandering through the nearby 18th century Kemeraltı Bazaar is a charming experience. Sellers have been hawking their wares here for generations. We stopped in at a lively square of the covered markets to sip Turkish çay tea and savour local treats, all the while perched upon low stools amongst the crowds.

At the bottom of the steep cliffs in the Karatas Quarter we marvelled at the Asansör. This historical building is a beautifully designed elevator that was built in 1907 by a wealthy Jewish banker as a public service to the local residents. It helped to ease the passage up and down the steep hills for the elderly, pregnant and disabled. It was later given as a gift to the citizens of Izmir, and today still runs as a free service for locals and tourists alike. From the top, we enjoyed a coffee on the side of the street with sweeping harbour views of Izmir.

Travelling back along the coast after a day of sightseeing we toured the Kordon, a seafront promenade built on reclaimed land. This esplanade is home to many bars, restaurants and cafes, and the area is buzzing every night of the week. The sociable ambiance is reflected by the fact that almost half of the city’s population are under 30.

Izmir is clearly a city full of life! Its rich heritage, cultural monuments and Mediterranean-Europen atmosphere make for a fun and friendly city. Just two years ago it became the first Cittaslow Metropolis of the world, a project which aims to apply the same basic philosophies to cities as those of the original Cittaslow concept. We would definitely recommend a visit to “the Pearl of the Aegean Sea”!